Clarks dubbing block

[wayneb]

Hi All;

I've been using my dubbing block this winter and a few things about it that make me think it could be improved. One, why is it so wide? I think 2 inches width would be more than adequate. Two, why is it made of wood? A block made of a stone product would be heavy enough to keep it in place and white stone(marble) would provide more contrast than wood. Polished marble would provide a smoother less sticky surface than wood.

I'm already using neodium magnets instead of slits for thread retention with good results.

Thoughts?

Wayneb

[chase creek]

Hi Wayne,
I've been using mine quite regularly since I got it, also. The only thing I did was put a small slit on top at the end where the peg is, so when you bring the top leg of the thread over the bottom leg, they line up exactly.
I may be wrong, but it is my understanding that the block was meant to be close to the original design, which probably accounts for the size and material choices. You're right about the width; I made one a long time ago that was 1 1/2 inches wide, and of course, it worked fine.
Also, are you putting the thread between the magnets to hold it?

[wayneb]

Hi Chasecreek;

Yes, I have thin rectangular magnets inletted and epoxied to the side and end where the thread slits would be. I place the thread over the magnet then, place an additional magnet over the thread to hold the thread. More than enough tension to hold the thread in place.

Wayneb

[Roadkill]

Mine are made of wood because I am a wood worker. It was easy for me to take some scrap and make several at one time to give away some to others for pennies in nails, pads for the bottom, and no cost for slits in the wood. To me the historic block size results in decent stability and working room, but I am not a spinning block purist and dub most of my fishing flies on the hook with various techniques. I do make bodies on the block for nostalgia just like an a occasional flymph rolled on a pant leg.

[Mataura mayfly]

To me- wood is warm and inviting, stone is cold and strong. When making small delicate bodies for something representing a small natural living thing wood just seems right- to me.

Width of the blocks is really a personal choice of the maker. I guess extra width give some more weight and stability if your block is "unmounted" or not clamped to a bench. Mine is 3 3/4" wide, mainly because that was the size of the scrap block it was made out of.
I used a marking gauge to gauge a "channel" down the centre of the block for the under laying thread to "sit" in and did not use a contrasting bed for the body area, but may do in any "mark 2" model.

I do like the magnet idea, not so much for the thread, but mounted on the base and something magnetic or matching magnets mounted into the bench so the block could be sat in place and none of the actions of body forming would cause it to wonder.

In reality the block only need to be the width of the thread and enough to balance the length of the material you were using as the body. So..... a "block" could be formed on the side of many wooden tying stations by adding a couple of pins and slots to hold the thread. Or a 1/2-3/4" strip of wood glued to the side of the station, alongside the upright tool holder with the holes drilled in it. That way the entire station becomes a counterbalance for the block.
Or you could invent a mini-block with small dowels protruding from the base that line up with holes in the side of a tying station and have a removable one.

Possibilities are endless.............

[Mike Connor]

If you use something like this, and make it of aluminium, it works very well indeed. There are lots of ways to do it. You can also use magnets profitably, among other things. It is a little more work than a simple block, but is also more useful for some things;

http://www.pechetruite.com/Mouches/dubbing-e.htm

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

I'm probably wrong, but I got the impression when I read this;

http://flymphforum.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... asurements

Where gingerdun posted;
"For reference, Pete Hidy made his block to measure 4 5/8 X 2 1/8 X 3/4 inches. I wouldn't make it any longer that that, since that would waste thread. Even 4 5/8 is longer than you need when spinning for #12 hooks or smaller."

That the wood used was probably a 1"X3" that was cut to the length mentioned and finished as it 'looked right'
and by default became the 'Standard'...
Just seems like a good fit to me.

hank

[wayneb]

Ok, here's why I asked, while at Lowes looking at tile I came across white marble threshold strips. They are 2 1/4" wide and 36" long, and have a polished surface. I already own a tile saw, so cutting it to length is no problem. Marble can be drilled with a carbide bit so inserting a post is no problem for that matter drilling it to insert magnets should be fairly easy too. Since its much heavier than wood, it will stay put better than wood when using, something I find challenging with my current block.

I plan on making my first prototype this weekend.

Wayneb

[Mataura mayfly]

Sounds like a great idea, love to see the results when you get your prototype made.

[William Anderson]

Wayne, your new block sounds great. Especially since you've found a great way to trap and hold the waved thread. I use magnets all over my tying station. I can tell you I've seen quite a few of the original blocks, both by Pete Hidy and by Richard Clark, and the dimensions vary with each one. There does seem to be an optimal size, and I believe the block I'm producing for sale does the job for me best. I have a maple block that is wider and several that are more narrow. They all work, but the narrower blocks need a little extra care and are lighter. The weight of the thing is really significant and the heavier the better, kind of. The marble would offer that as an advantage, but I like the look and feel of the wood. As a wood worker, occasionally, I'm a sucker for high quality wood finished with Danish oil. It's not necessary, but if you're going to make a tool, or a rod, the aesthetics count. Once functionality is at it's best, details matter a great deal. I've seen one of Richard clarks blocks in cherry and by the looks of it, (it was a little longer and a bit more narrow than my available blocks) it was one of his favorites. The pine is just too light for me. I'm making poplar blocks now as well, same construction details as the maple and walnut in every way, and I'll be proud of them, but they seem a third the weight and stability of the maple. I know there may seem to be a standard dimension, but I can assure you, there was not. I can't wait to see your marble version.

w