FLYMPH FORUM

Ariel - Here is a link to a tutorial that Charlie Craven created illustrating a method of tying smaller flies with partridge feathers. I use this method with I want to scale the hackle down for smaller flies.

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox ... rentID=155

Another method is to use a tip-tyed feather. Partridge feathers have a natural taper, with the fibers near the tip being shorter than the fibers further down the feather. You can use this to your advantage when tying smaller flies. Just try to grasp the center stem of the feather and brush the fibers so the radiate out (90°) from the stem. Clip off a stem at the point where the hackle fibers are the length that you want to use. Leave a tiny triangle of fibers to allow room to tye the feather in by the small triangle. Gently grasp the butt end of the feather in the hackle pliers and stroke the fibers all to one side of the stem (i.e. - fold the hackle). Now, when you wrap the hackle, the shortest fibers will radiate around the collar.

Of course, feather selection can also help. If you pick feathers from the neck region of the bird, they will naturally be smaller than the feathers from the back. When I tye really small stuff (trico), I almost always use feathers from the upper neck region of the bird.

And once again you folks have been johnny on the spot. Now I remember, Craven!!! That's the one I had read about.

Ariel, two things. First, learn to tye in by the tip, and size (accurately estimating, and stripping off everything [all fibers] but EXACTLY what you will need), your hackle well BEFORE you ever tye it in. And 2. get yourself a pair of the Wasatch Clip Style Hackle Pliers (http://www.flytyingtools.com/webpages/t ... _clip.html). The kind that are just their fancy version of the radio shack model. And "fancy" is NOT the key word. The reason you want the Wasatch model is because they hold MUCH stronger and have a MUCH longer clip, that virtually NEVER slips. DO NOT, buy the clips Radio Shack sells and try to use them for hackle pliers.........the are complete JUNK for that purpose.
Above i used the word "pair"...........when in reality of course, we're talkin' a single tool. i have well over 20 different hackle pliers........virtually every kind made. But i still prefere the clip style the best, and the Wasatch clip style, work BEST! Good luck

Willow those pliers are works of art. Thanks for the suggestion.

i've been using the regular version (same exact clip only red), for over 10 years........Jack Gatside sold them to me a couple different times. He was the only source for them for a long time. The Wasatch version is absolutely no different cept they're green w/fancy wood grain instead of red. i keep one at each tyin' desk and a few more in the travel stuff. They are the most important tool i use along with VERY GOOD scissors, tiny (needled) bodkins, and the best bobbin (holders)..........after that you can make most anything do the job............but for me, those 4 tools are the ones you where you MUST have the BEST.
btw, i also have the extra long ones.....but i never brought that up before as you were asking bout wraping hackle on such small hook..........i do occassionally use the big boy when tyin' on the gigantic hooks. But you should know, (if you don't already), never use hackle pliers, if you can do the job by just holding on to the rachis. More direct contact (control) is always best.
Btw, two thumbs up for Charlie Craven in all aspects..........as a person/tyer/fly shop owner/author/teacher/demonstrator. And get to his shop asap. It's a good one.

You need fine rubber or silicone rubber tubing on the ends of hackle pliers for grip. You can use it on one side or on both sides. Using it on both sides grips best. Shrink tubing and other similar stuff does not grip as well.
Something like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Silicone- ... 8961b26b53

at one time most people used valve rubber ( the sort used on the valves of bicycle tyres) this is it;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CYCLE-BIKE-VA ... 0627250106

There are lots of various hackle pliers available now. Here are some of the pliers I use;



Quite a few people prefer rotary hackle pliers for a number of things, here is an easy way to make some. Get one of the small "English" type hackle pliers. Now all you need is a key ring, and a barrel swivel. Slip the barrel swivel over the hackle pliers, and then the other end over the key-ring.

Voila! Rotary hackle pliers:



I have used a "snap-link" here, as the last lot of these I made up were snapped up by people from my fly-dressing class, and I have no barrel swivels to hand right now. The somewhat larger stainless steel barrel swivels as used for sea-fishing etc are the best. Quite a few people get on much better with these pliers than with the "normal" type.

You can use a handle instead of a key ring if you like. If you want "shock absorption" use a small spring between the barrel swivel and the keyring. or handle.

TL
MC

Ariel, this is a pic of the JDorin teardrop hackle pliers I referred to. The suggestion of using wax works here too. I have found these to be my best choice when I'm snapping very delicate stems or fibers. At some point though you just have to expect to retie a few until it works when using very small feathers.

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox ... rentID=155 This might help you.

Mark

i've got those teardrop plies.........they slip a lot..........but they look cool. Got every plier piced here, cept that yellow one.......never use any of 'em. i was watchin' one of Davy Wotton's tyin' DVDs again last night.....and he was reccommending you use as light a pliers as you can..........he says if they're to heavy, that aint good. To much chance of that weight just causin' problems.........i totally agree. "Another" good reason why i like the clip style so much.

Different people prefer different rods, lines, whatever. Eventually one find something that works. What makes the C&F rotary pliers work for me is the rubber link, between the handle and the jaws, that acts like a suspension and also prevents the pliers from un-wanted twisting. Both of these weak links have been troublesome for me with other pliers. If one has normal control over ones hands, this might be less of a problem. I usually needed several tries to mount small (sz 18, 20) or fragile hackles, wasting a lot of material. That is much less of a problem nowadays.
Don't buy what you don't need, but if you need it, then buy it.

dd