FLYMPH FORUM

Thanks Doug. I enjoy the discussions too. That cake sounds wonderful... Got any left?

Yea, but it's going fast. Mostly around my waist line! They say that shoveling snow helps this condition. Stop in Ray. I'll even make coffee!
Dougsden

Hi Ray: Great fly and dubbing brush machine. How did you anchor the turning knob to the wood? I made a dubbing machine but my knob rests too high above the wood block, causing my thread and wire to rise too high, creating a large gap between the block and the turner. I don't know if this can be understood, but I sure tried.
Bruce

Bruce - The twisting knob/bearing assembly is held down by a metal band with a rubber coating. This is a simple piping clamp/ support that you can pick up at any hardware store. I picked this up in a local Ace Hardware store, from the piping and plumbing section. I believe it is for a 3/4" diameter copper pipe but I will need to verify the size. The nice thing about this, is that the bearing assembly rests directly on the the wooden block. This may help you with the location of the center of your wire rotation. I built mine so that the wire rests flush with the bottom of the dubbing groove when it is twisted.

5feathers wrote:Hi Ray: Great fly and dubbing brush machine. How did you anchor the turning knob to the wood? I made a dubbing machine but my knob rests too high above the wood block, causing my thread and wire to rise too high, creating a large gap between the block and the turner. I don't know if this can be understood, but I sure tried.
Bruce

Not to cut Ray's grass here, but why don't you just increase the depth of the notch or step on which your bearing assembly rests such that axis sits on the same plane as the bottom of the dubbing trough? Alternatively slot in a spacer to lift the trough up.

Aaron

Both are good suggestions, Aaron. Perhaps a simple strip of craft foam (2 mm or 3 mm thick) would be enough to raise the bottom level of the dubbing slot.

That is fantastic. Thanks for all the extra pics. You're tying is very inspirational and much appreciated. I had quite a bit of success on small streams this winter with some wire bodied (not dubbed) soft-hackles with a wide gaped hook. I should add a bit of dubbing to the patterns. If I get a chance to do some comparitve fishing, I'll report back on the success.

Thanks Ray.

w

bump. just fixing the photos on this old post.

Thanks Ray. I had not seen this and, as usual, looking at your posts always makes my jaw drop. On the dubbing block, what is the purpose of the paired finishing nails at each end? Thanks for any light you can shed. I was thinking of making one to play around with this winter.

The nails are simple guides. The silk should run between the nails. I guess in truth, they are unnecessary. The one I copied had them, so I built mine with them too. I use the to hold a strip of leather (black on one side/tan on the other) as a backdrop to help make the dubbing more visible.